Finding Peace Amongst the Umbrella Rocks of Agno

Pangasinan, Philippines is blessed with numerous summer destinations scattered all over the province.  While we were doing our research on where to go next for our 2017 summer getaway, we found out that the province not only has a number of nice beaches, but several waterfalls as well.  We had four days to spend in Pangasinan and I suggested to the group that we visit one of the waterfalls if it was possible.  However, due to certain circumstances, we had to make adjustments in our itinerary.

One from our group recommended the Umbrella Rocks of Agno because she has a coworker who’s a local of Agno.  These rock formations at the mouth of Balincaguin River are famous for their peculiar shapes, naturally carved out by the elements over the ages.  It is one of the main attractions of the municipality along with the Abagatanen Beach (which unfortunately for us, we did not get to visit).  All the rooms at Agno Umbrella Rocks were already booked when we tried to make a reservation but we were so privileged to be allowed by Councilor Charlie Dave Rosete, through the help of Mr. Clarence Narabal, to use the Tourist Hall at the beach.

The Umbrella Rocks of Agno

From Burgos town proper, it was less than an hour’s drive to get to the town proper of Agno.  We stopped by Agno public market to replenish some of our supplies and also have a quick snack.  We were relieved when we saw the signs pointing to the Umbrella Rocks that said we were only just 4 kilometers away (compared to the 24 kilometers in Burgos).  The road going to the beach was a two-lane paved road except for the last 400 meters which was a rough road, one vehicle wide.  Vehicles can be parked at the  open parking space just outside the beach area.

Replenishing supplies before going to the beach

The rough road part going to the beach is much shorter

See? We're here already!

Vehicles may be parked here (with minimal fee)

The Umbrella Rocks beach is operated by the local government of Agno. When we visited the place, the area was clean and the locals who were looking after the beach were always there so there was also a sense of security.  The tourist hall where we stayed was a newly constructed building that had one big space inside.  It had separate bathroom/toilet for the ladies and the men.  It had a sink that served as our kitchen.  Cottages are available in the resort where you could stay overnight and there’s also a lot of space where you could pitch tents.

After setting up our stuff in the tourist hall, we were greeted by a surprise feast courtesy of Mr. Clarence because somebody in our group was celebrating their wedding anniversary.  The timing was just right because it was time for lunch when we arrived at Agno.  All the food were yummy but one particular item that stood out for me was the Alaminos longganisa.  It was so tasty, our group agreed that we pass by Alaminos market on our way home to buy some.

The beach had fine grayish black sand while the water was clean and clear.  The sand was hot in the afternoon because of its color so the aqua shoes came in handy.   In front of the tourist hall, the sea bottom was rocky and had some big, sandy, shallow pits in several places that I found useful the next day.  The sandy part of the sea was right in front of the cottages just a few steps away from the tourist hall.  Beyond the cottages were the famous Umbrella Rocks.

The newly constructed Tourist Hall where we stayed

A big space where the kids could play

Also has a small pantry

This view!

There were only a few people even though it was the peak season

Our grub for the day courtesy of Mr. Clarence!

The kids spent the whole afternoon playing in the water.  Low tide was approaching that time so the water was shallow and just right for the kids.  It was a lot easier to monitor the kids at Umbrella Rocks beach because there were only few people.  We could very well see them from the tourist hall.  I believe this would be the same case if we got the cottage because the beach was also just in in front.  The kids could not get too far out into the open sea because the rocky bottom was just next to the shallow sandy part of the beach and it would be difficult to walk on the sharp rocks.  As for the kids in the autism spectrum, an adult companion at the beach would still be a must.

Mr. Clarence, who is a local of Agno, was so generous to prepare our dinner that night.  We had our dinner outside the tourist hall, facing the night sea while exchanging stories.  The kids had the big space of the tourist hall as their playground.  After dinner, we got to light a bonfire at the beach that made the kids excited.  The sand was still warm from the heat it absorbed during the day and I found it relaxing to bury my legs in them.  The rest of the night was spent on stories while the kids played inside the hall until everyone called it a day.

I woke up at 3am to have a good look at the milky way again.  This time I asked my wife to come with me together with our niece.  The view was more spectacular this time because there were lesser lights at Agno compared to Cabongaoan Beach.  There was also a place away from the tourist hall that was totally dark and that was where we viewed the majestic night sky.

Having a few drinks 

Tide started to recede in the late afternoon

Kids enjoyed playing in the big hall even during the late night

Because it wouldn't be complete without a bonfire at the beach!

Early morning, the tide was low and several fishermen had already set out.  We decided to try to meet them after breakfast and maybe get to buy some fish.  They seemed to be going to the direction of where the umbrella rocks were so we had the kids change to their swimming clothes and brought them with us.  The rock formations were just a few meters away from the tourist hall and getting there was just a matter of walking a few steps along the sandy shore.

Early morning and the tide's still low

Mother and child

Sending their master off to a safe fishing trip

Foraging during the morning low tide

The beautiful rock formations provided a scenic view of the Balincaguin river mouth.  Underneath the umbrella rocks was sandy shallow waters so it was a perfect place for the kids to play.  The rocks lived up to their names as they provided the shade from the summer sun.  There were shallow caves further towards the river mouth and sadly, some people left their trash in them.  A little further still just after the cave was a large boulder that seem to be positioned precariously against a cliff (at the bottom, it was standing on just a single point on another rock while at the top it was leaning against the cliff).  Beyond that was a sign warning visitors not to go any further because the waves would be too dangerous.

We were hoping we could get to where the fishermen would beach their boats so we could buy some of their catch for the day.  Unfortunately, we found out that the boats went straight into the river and most probably straight to the town proper of Agno to sell their catch there, so again there were no fresh catch for us at Agno.

Fine gray sand

Happy feet!

The beach area of where the cottages are

Open cottages are also available

A short distance to get to the Umbrella Rocks

Taking photos before the crowd gets here!

And more!

Looks imposing...

For DP!

Family photos can be difficult to take (lol)

Some rocks are quite massive

Emo shot (lol)

The beach around the rocks is sandy

One of the massive rocks

The water is shallow too (at certain periods)

Boulders are also scattered around the area

Ankle deep water

Peculiar looking rock

Onward to see more rocks!

Morning sun over the mouth of Balincaguin river mouth

Even the water near the river mouth is clean and shallow

That rock looks dangerous

Another massive rock

People started to arrive

We went back to the tourist hall after a few snaps at the umbrella rocks.  We spent the morning swimming the cool waters in front of the tourist hall.  We mentioned about those big sandy pits on the rocky sea floor, well those shallow, sandy pits were very useful to us.  It served as a small pool where an adult could just stay in one corner and just watch the kids to play within that pool.  It was perfect even for kids in the autism spectrum.  Getting to those pits required walking on the sharp rocks so the aqua shoes came in handy again.  Once inside one of the sandy pits, it was like a normal beach again, only smaller.  The rocks around the pit served as a barrier so the kids would stay inside the pool.  During normal tide, the water in those pits were just the right depth for the kids to enjoy.  I didn’t have to keep on holding on to my autistic son while we were in one of the pits.  He just enjoyed the waters while I got to have time with our eldest son to explore the fish and other sea life at the side of the rocks.

Back to the beach

Freeze!

Clear waters!

Selfie with the boys

Fish watching

Clear underwater

Good to take underwater selfie!

Run!

There were friendly local kids swimming with us

Just letting them play around

42 Wallaby Way, Sydney...

Earlier that day before we went out to see the umbrella rocks, I was watching some locals in makeshift rafts fishing at the rocky part of the sea.  When we went back to the hall after swimming, one of those locals offered to sell his catch to us, two octopuses.  We gladly bought his catch and cooked them adobo style to add to our lunch menu.

For lunch we have...

Doesn't look scary, eh?

Curious kids

Who wants?

After having our lunch, we felt sad that we had to leave Umbrella Rocks beach.  On our way out of Agno, we passed by the People’s Park to meet Councilor Charlie Rosete and Mr. Clarence.  The park of the quiet little town of Agno was clean and seemed to be well maintained.  We met our good hosts in one of the floating huts along the Balincaguin river bank just off the People’s Park.  According to Councilor, the floating huts were just recently built to be used by the public free of charge.  The floating huts was a very nice project of the local government which complemented the clean and relaxed atmosphere of the park.  The river was surprisingly very clean considering that it was right next to the town proper of Agno.  We thanked the good Councilor Charlie and Mr. Clarence for accommodating us and for their hospitality before saying goodbye.

Group photo before leaving

And another...

Four days driving and the car needs a serious bath!

A photo with the municipality signage has become  a trend recently

And another...

People's Park

Floating huts along Balincaguin River

The huts were just recent additions to the park.

It allows a scenic and relaxing view of Balincaguin River

Smile for the cam!

The huts are quite spacious

Group photo with our good hosts Councilor Charlie Dave Rosete and Mr. Clarence Narabal

We were going to stop and rest for a while at a friend’s hometown in Brgy. Tobuan, Labrador, Pangasinan before we head back home to Manila.  But first, on our way to Labrador, we made our compulsory stop at Alaminos to buy some tasty Alaminos longganisa to bring back home.

Going back to Alaminos...

Almost there...

To buy these tasty Alaminos longganisa

Here's one being stuffed 

And they're ready to go

These tasty yummy sausages from Alaminos!

Brgy. Tobuan was having their Piyesta ng Dagat when we got there so there were a lot of people at the beach.  Our friend’s place was right at Tobuan Beach.  We did not get to swim there because we made a stop there just to rest and let the Manila traffic pass.  Our bags were also already packed for home.  Besides, we had already been there in one of our previous getaways and we could come back there any other time.  After having our dinner, off we went to go home.

Entering Tobuan Beach

They're celebrating Piyesta ng Dagat ergo the many people

Lots of kids too!

Sun's almost out

Catching different hues of the sunset

Calling it a day.

We left Agno with a mixed feeling that day.  We were happy that we got to experience and enjoy Umbrella Rocks Beach but we also felt sad because somehow, the time we spent there wasn’t enough.  We could have stayed one more day and maybe experience Abagatanen Beach as well, but sadly, we needed to get back to Manila.  The Umbrella Rocks Beach of Agno had a more relaxed and stress free feel.  It was also kid friendly because of the shallow waters and gentle waves.  Children in the autism spectrum would also enjoy the place because it was calmer, considering that we went there in one of the long weekends of summer.  The gentle roar of the sea, wide open space and pleasant view were just of the right amount not to overload the senses of the autistic child.  The local government of Agno was doing a good job in running the place and like all the other beautiful places we’ve been, we hope that it would stay that way.  Agno has definitely made it to our “to go back to” list.

Tips:

Travel means: 

Private Vehicle: Going to the Umbrella Rocks Beach from the town proper of Agno is relatively easy.  The road is already paved concrete except for that last leg which is around 400 meters.  Sedans will be able to maneuver this rough road but extra care should be taken when getting off the concrete road and onto the rough road.  If not maneuvered correctly, the underside of the vehicle could scrape against the edge of the concrete road.  SUV’s and pick-up trucks will have no problem.  The rough road is only wide enough for one vehicle to fit but unlike the one at Cabongaoan, the distance is only short so one vehicle could give way (preferably the one ascending should be the one the give way because it would be difficult for the descending vehicle to drive backwards and climb back up to the concrete road).

Like in Cabongaoan, there are only a few petrol stations at Agno but it is much nearer to Alaminos so just in case, you may top up at Agno enough to get you to Alaminos then fill up at Alaminos for the rest of your journey back home (that is if you prefer fuel from the Big 3, else you can make your tank full at Agno).

Public Transport: Based on the website of Five Star Bus have a route from Manila going to Agno.  From Agno town proper, you can take a tricycle to the Umbrella Rocks Beach (again, ask the driver to come back for you and get the driver’s mobile number).

Kidsentials and advise for autism families:

• Aqua shoes are recommended for kids because during the day, the sand can get hot.  Also, the rocky bottom in front on the tourist center is difficult to walk on (the sea in front of the cottages is sandy). 

• Although the waters are shallow, life vests for kids may come in handy.  It’s ok if they’re not wearing any just make sure that you keep an eye on them.  There aren't any lifeguards at the beach so make sure somebody from your group can swim. 

• If camping out in a tent, a good way to prepare your special one is to set up your tent at home a few days before the big day.  Have your kids have a sort of a sleepover inside the tent.  If you only have one child, sleep in the tent with your special one.  Show photos and videos of people sleeping outdoors in the tent.  The key is to get them excited to use the tent so that when the big day comes, they will feel at ease.  You can also watch the night sky with the kids before getting them to sleep.  Also, an adult should be sleeping next to the tent’s door in case one of the kids wakes up. 

• This is a permanent must have in all adventures you go to with the family:  First aid kit with some insect repellent. 

Other general tips:

• There aren’t any stores at the beach so it’s best to buy everything you need before proceeding to the beach.  Although going to the town proper is just a short 4-km drive, it’s more convenient to just have everything you need with you. 

• Like all the other lesser known beach we’ve been, don’t expect to find premium resort facilities or restaurants here.  This particular beach is being operated by the local government but even though only basic facilities are there, the place is very well maintained and clean.  We can’t tell you about the cottages for rent because we weren’t able to use them, but I think the basic stuff you need are there.  Just remember not to expect for everything to be there, consider your visit as an outdoor adventure. 

• There are some locals (caretakers) who roam around even during the wee hours of the night, making sure that things are in order and peaceful.

• This should also be considered as a “sticky” and we urge everyone to never forget and follow this very simple rule:  Clean up before you go and bring your trash with you (or throw them in the proper bins if available).  Even if you paid a small fee, it is still a good practice to give respect to the surroundings and the people living there.  "Take nothing but memories/photos, leave nothing but footprints".