Friday, February 3, 2017

Leaving Worries Behind at Cagbalete Island

Flashback time! We're sharing our adventure from about two years ago at Cagbalete Island, Quezon Province, Philippines.  We are posting this throwback first because although we already traveled by boat (passenger ferries, small boats and outriggers) several times already, our autistic son had one of his important milestones in this trip.

Besides being a family trip, this trip was also planned together with our close friends and their families as well (we could say they are our "extended" family).  We had this preference to travel to more remote areas and most often off the beaten path locations.

Cagbalete Island is a small paradise located at Mauban, Quezon. It is in Lamon Bay, facing the Pacific and about only a few kilometers off the Luzon mainland.  Getting there involves a short boat ride from the port of Mauban, Quezon.

There were 3 vehicles in our convoy and we met at Petron petrol station at South Luzon Expressway.  I lead the convoy on the way to Mauban using the trustee GPS app on my mobile phone.  The route I plotted was through Sto. Tomas-San Pablo-Majayjay-Lucban-Mauban.  It was actually a shorter route but a little challenging due to the narrower roads, curves, steep climbs and descent.  But it would be away from the possible traffic jam at the main thoroughfares caused by the Holy Week rush.
welcome arch of san pablo laguna philippines
Entering...
We had our stop at Nagcarlan for fuel top up and some stretching.  Just our luck that the petrol station where we stopped was right in front of the Libingan sa Ilalim ng Lupa (Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery), a national historical site.  The cemetery was built during the Philippines’ Spanish Colonial Era as burial grounds for the Spanish friars and prominent personalities.  It was used later on by the Filipino revolutionary leaders as a secret meeting place to plan against the Spaniards and then later still as hideout of those fighting against the Americans. The underground area of the site was a bit too dimly lit so this is a warning area for autism families.  It could feel scary and claustrophobic to kids in the autism spectrum.
nagcarlan underground cemetery laguna philippines
Unexpected to find a historical site in front of the station where we topped up.

nagcarlan underground cemetery laguna philippines
A national historical site

nagcarlan underground cemetery laguna philippines
Curious to look around

nagcarlan underground cemetery laguna philippines
This way to the underground crypt

nagcarlan underground cemetery laguna philippines
Nice to see that this historical site is well maintained

nagcarlan underground cemetery laguna philippines
We were here!
Our next rest stop after Nagcarlan was at Lucban where we bought some garlicky-sour goodness that is the Lucban longganisa.  We only bought a few packs though, which was our mistake because we thought we would be going through this route again on our way home.
welcome arch of majayjay laguna philippines
Welcome to...

laguna quezon boundary
Entering Quezon province

lucban longganisa store at lucban quezon philippines
But first!...
We arrived Mauban town property about an hour before noon and our agenda was to find a parking space to leave our cars until we get back.  There are several parking spaces around Mauban especially during the peak season.  Some of these parking spaces are run by private individuals as well as those run by the local government, just ask the locals or the people manning the tourist center to help you find one.  After leaving our cars, off we went to find a place to eat.  We found a local eatery and ordered some local specialties, including the famous Pansit Habhab (a must try, nothing beats authentic especially when cooked by a local and in their hometown).
winding road between lucban and mauban
The last leg of our route was filled with curves, steep climbs and descent

welcome arch of mauban quezon philippines
Finally!

sign pointing to tourist center of mauban quezon
You won't get lost, just follow the signs...

pansit habhab of mauban quezon
The famous pansit habhab! (Don't forget the spiced vinegar!)

town proper of mauban quezon
Going around town to buy supplies
We then split up, some went to the port to arrange for a boat to take us to Cagbalete while some of us went around the market to buy supplies.  It was already way past 10AM and there were no more commuter boats going to the island so our only choice was to book for a chartered outrigger from one of the locals (we could easily fill a fairly big outrigger anyway so it wasn’t an issue).  At the tourist area is where we registered and paid for the environmental fee (any Filipino adventurer would know these prerequisites).  It is best to get your chartered boat at the tourist center of Mauban because the local government staff are active in protecting the interest of both the travelers and the locals so there is very slim chance that you'll get ripped off.
mauban quezon tourist center
Waiting for our boat at the tourist center

a fishing village at mauban quezon
A quiet fishing village

jetty port of mauban quezon
Time to get to the boat

boat going to cagbalete island
Our ride to the island

on board the boat going to cagbalete island
Yes... taking this photo is mandatory (haha!)

on board the boat going to cagbalete island
All aboard!
We had no prior booking to any private resort in the island, which was our mistake because we failed to anticipate the number of travelers going on vacation throughout the Holy Week holiday.  We called several resorts while we waited at the port and the only one that confirmed to be able to accommodate us at that time was Pansacola Beach Resort, so we had the boat take us there.  The boat ride was short since the resort was the nearest one and is located at the southernmost tip of the island.  The resort was nice and cool with several trees giving ample shade to most areas.  However, when we talked to the gentleman in charge of the resort, he informed us that apparently, the availability we talked about over the phone was a mistake.  All the accommodation that would suit our group size was already booked for the holidays.  We could opt for two cabins but at that time, the one he was offering was far apart from each other and the other cabin would have some security issues, it was a little too open to secure our belongings.
approaching cagbalete island
There it is!

approaching cagbalete island
Can't wait to get to the beach

approaching cagbalete island
Here we go...

pansacola beach resort cagbalete island
The grounds of Pansacola Beach

pansacola beach resort cagbalete island
Lots of tree shaded areas
After calling several other resorts, we finally had a confirmation at MVT Sto. Niño (click here for their website but I think they are more active in their Facebook page here).  The only problem was that it was a little far up North the island and our chartered boat had already left.  So with all our stuff in tow, we started walking along the shores.  We had not reached a kilometer yet but we were already growing tired.  Fortunately for us, another outrigger passed by.  They gladly let us on board and took us to MVT Sto. Niño (for a small fee).  The waters were already growing rough when we got to the resort and we couldn’t appreciate the sea yet especially for the little ones.  Good thing though that the compound had wide open space for the kids to play around.  The feel around MVT Sto. Niño was more relaxed (probably because it was still the beginning of the holidays and there were only a few guests), with more open space and coconut trees around the camping grounds.  It was also relatively cheap to stay there too.  There were also clean common toilets and a big mess hall.  The staff of the resort were also quite friendly and offered help whenever they could.  They even offered to buy some food and supplies for us at Sabang public market in the morning.
walking the shores of cagbalete island
Errrrrr.........

mvt sto nino cagbalete island quezon
The main building of MVT Sto. Niño houses several rooms, the mess hall, toilets and shower rooms
mvt sto nino cagbalete island quezon
But we prefer to stay in these here huts!

mvt sto nino cagbalete island quezon
Spacious open grounds of MVT Sto. Niño
During our trip to Cagbalete, the island didn’t have a central electricity service yet.  Most of the electricity were from privately run generator sets which only ran at fixed hours in the evening.  MVT Sto. Niño had its own generator set but like the others, it only ran on specified hours at night.  This wasn’t an issue for us though since we were already used to roughing it and having these kinds of adventures.
mvt sto nino cagbalete island quezon
Sports and team building activities can be done in this spacious grounds

mvt sto nino cagbalete island quezon
A common dirty kitchen that the guests can use (bring your own fuel!)

mvt sto nino cagbalete island quezon
Tent pitching area covered with coconut trees

night time shot of a mangrove at cagbalete island
Artsy shot of the nearby mangrove at night with the full moon
I mentioned earlier that this trip was also a milestone event for our son with autism.  This trip was when he stopped using diapers.  He was already getting a little too big for diapers and even though we had been training him, he still felt that it wasn’t his time to lose the diapers yet.  During this vacation, we had to pack as few items as possible, and that included diapers, because we had to cross the sea by a small boat.  Another problem was that we were in a remote area of the island and finding a place to buy diapers seemed almost next to impossible.  Our only solution was for us to try not putting a diaper on him and use our stock only when it was really, really needed.  The good thing about the situation was that he finally decided to let go of the habit and started using the toilet to do his business (at that time, he didn’t want dirty pants anymore and he already understood the concept of dirty and clean).

We had our dinner at the mess hall because it was a little too dark around the area where our huts were.  Our dinner was the Lucban longganisa we bought and some fish and veggies we bought at Mauban market.

When it was already time for the ladies and the kids to rest, the men had the usual bonding session.

In the morning, we were finally able to appreciate the beach.  The calm and shallow waters stretched far and wide.  The waters were still about knee deep even after walking some several hundred meters away from the shore.  It was perfect for the kids to run around and play.  The resort was also beside a small estuary where the currents were stronger.
a mangrove at cagbalete island quezon
The mangrove area at day time

low tide at cagbalete island quezon
Low tide morning!

an estuary near mvt sto. nino cagbalete island quezon
A small estuary beside the resort

an estuary near mvt sto. nino cagbalete island quezon
Another artsy shot, this time, of the estuary's mouth 

kids running towards the sea at cagbalete island
Follow the sun

kids running towards the sea at cagbalete island
Time to play!
low tide at mvt sto nino cagbalete island quezon
The shallow waters extend far and wide

low tide at mvt sto nino cagbalete island quezon
Safe for kids to run around...

low tide at mvt sto nino cagbalete island quezon
And play...

low tide at mvt sto nino cagbalete island quezon
And roll over! (they actually don't need those life vests)...

fishermen at cagbalete island quezon
And sometimes, the fishermen do not need boats

underwater selfie at cagbalete island quezon
What's going to the beach without an underwater snap?!

the fine sand around cagbalete island quezon
This is how fine and creamy the sand is

clam at cagbalete island quezon
You can find live clams and other sea creatures around here

sand castle at cagbalete island quezon
Of course with sand this fine a sand castle is a must
That morning, just before we took the kids to go swimming, a resort staff told us that a native pig would be slaughtered in the village and if we wanted, he could buy us some choice cuts.  So our lunch that day was grilled native pork belly fresh from the slaughterhouse, straight to our grill.  The resort staff also got us some coconuts right off the trees around the camping area of the resort.  Essentially, our noon was the ideal getaway with relaxed sunshiny coastal weather and food fresh from the source.
grilling fish at cagbalete island quezon
Time to cook some grub

grilling pork belly at cagbalete island quezon
Native pork belly, straight from the slaughter house to our grill

mvt sto nino resort cagbalete island quezon
That's not our dog...

coconuts at mvt sto nino cagbalete island quezon
Coconuts fresh off the trees

mvt sto nino resort cagbalete island quezon
Yep, we could live like this

mvt sto nino resort cagbalete island quezon
A relaxing, lazy noon

mvt sto nino resort cagbalete island quezon
A charming front lawn at a property beside the resort

path leading to town proper of cagbalete island quezon
The road leading to other areas of the island

hermit crab at cagbalete island quezon
Hey there big guy!
Late in the afternoon, it felt so heavy that we had to leave this wonderful place, just as were getting relaxed and enjoying the bliss.  Our chartered boat picked us up and took us back to the port.  It was almost dark when we got to the parking lot where we left our car.  On the way home, we took the longer and busier route via Tayabas for safety reasons.
mvt sto nino beach resort cagbalete island quezon
The tide started to rise in the afternoon

mvt sto nino resort cagbalete island quezon
Sad to say that we have to leave soon
Our stay at Cagbalete was short and made us just crave for more.  We had a taste of this piece of paradise and the aftertaste was long lasting.  So long lasting in fact that up to now, the feeling of wanting to have more lingers still.  The shallow, clear and cool waters that stretched far is perfect for the kids, you can just sit or lie down in the shallow water and just watch the kids play without worrying too much.  It is an ideal place where families can cast their worries aside.  Even autism families can find peace visiting this place.  The relaxed and slow pace of coastal life in a remote haven is something that is really worth the journey.  Anyone could use living the carefree, laid back lifestyle once in a while and Cagbalete is one of the perfect spots to have this.



Tips:

Travel means: 
Car: A full tank may be enough to get you from Manila to Mauban and back, but to be safe, you can always top up at Tayabas on the way back to Manila

The Tayabas route is longer but easier, with wider roads.  Be aware however that this is a major thoroughfare so there will be buses and trucks.

Bus:  Public transport is via Lucena.  You will have to take the bus from Manila to Lucena then at Lucena, there will be mini buses there going to Mauban (sorry, i do not know this very well.  You can check Google for the bus schedules).

Boat: It is way cheaper to take the commuter boat from Mauban to Cagbalete and back than to hire a chartered boat.  But there is a schedule so better check the timings and plan your trip well if you want to take the commuter boat.  You can also inquire from resorts like MVT Sto. Niño on the boat schedule.  They will be happy to let you know.  The advantage of chartered outrigger is that they will take you directly to the resort of your choice.

On the island: There isn't a transport system on the island at the time of our visit there.  If you take the commuter boat, it will take you to Sabang port only.  It is a fishing village and the "town proper" of Cagbalete.  You can also buy your other supplies there before going to your resort.  To go to your resort, you can hire a private boat or just hike into the island and then to your resort.  Depending on how far your resort is, hiking could take an hour or more.  You can also hire horses to take you there or carabao pulled wagons. 

Kidsentials and advise for autism families:
  • Your trustee sensory overload kit.  But I guess you wouldn't need to bring much since Cagbalete Island is a peaceful, relaxing rural area so there is less chance for overload.
  • Snacks and drinks while on the road.
  • Lifesavers or lifevests, although are not essential due to shallow waters, just bring some for safety reasons.
  • First aid kit (this is of course an essential in any adventure) with some insect repelent
Other general tips:
  • Choose a resort where you would stay and contact them to book your stay.  At this time, Google already has many information about Cagbalete so it's just a matter of working your fingers.
  • It is advisable to have a checklist of what you will need in your stay at the island and then bring them with you.  Buy all the other stuff you need (food, water, coal for cooking, etc.) either at Mauban or at Sabang before proceeding to your resort because the nearest store to your resort might be a kilometer away or more.
  • Bring powerbank for your gadgets and portable lights.  You may consider your stay there as a regular hiking/camping where you will need some survival gear and other outdoor essentials.
  • Do not bring your worries to the island.  Just leave them behind and enjoy the slow paced, peaceful and relaxing life at Cagbalete Island!

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